Lorenzo of Crystal Palace

Notizie

 

 

Lorenzo

73 Westow Hill
Crystal Palace
SE19 1TX

020 8761 7485

www.lorenzo.uk.com

Little taste of Italy
Croydon Advertiser: 15th October 2004
Laura Kendall

I must confess, I had been to Lorenzo Pizzeria before I visited in the guise of restaurant reviewer. In fact, when I lived a stone's throw from Crystal Palace a couple of years back, this cosy restaurant was one of my favourite places to eat. It's always interesting returning to a cherished eatery after an extended hiatus. There's an almost nervous excitement: will the atmosphere be as vibrant, the staff as friendly and, of course, the food as delicious?

Happily at Lorenzo, the answer is a resounding yes. This is the very best kind of "neighbourhood joint" - the sort where, if you go there often enough, the staff learn your name and your favourite dish. In London, such personal attention is a rare commodity.

If you've ever been to a trattoria in Italy itself, it will be evident just how well that atmosphere has been recreated at Lorenzo. Tables are set close together over two floors ensuring a constant lively hubbub as neighbouring diners work to be heard over each other, while low lighting and plenty of nooks offer an intimate setting for parties of two.

And the hearty food is of consistently good quality here; steaming mounds of freshly cooked pasta and interesting, richly flavoured sauces are the kind of meals that will warm you to the tips of your toes on a cold autumn evening.

Generosity appears to be the buzz word - portions are enormous. I ordered bruschetta as a starter expecting one or two slices of thin bread. Four slabs of crusty ciabatta were delivered, each heaped with olive oildrizzled tomatoes and herbs.

My friends were just as well-fed: a rocket salad was loaded with sundried tomato, pine kernels and liberal slices of parmesan, while insalata tricolore mimicked the colours of the Italian flag with its plump rows of avocado, mozzarella and tomato.

Main courses are another matter entirely; don't order a pasta dish unless you have an Olympic athlete-sized craving for carbohydrates. My spaghetti Lorenzo was a veritable mountain of pasta with what was essentially a puttanesca sauce. But the flavours of the capers, anchovies, garlic, chillies, olives and tomatoes blended so seamlessly as to give the dish something extra.

Lorenzo certainly isn't stingy with the seafood in his linguine marinara, either. It was piled high with prawns among the red pepper, olive, cream and tomato sauce.

And ravioli pesto was an earthy vegetarian option, offering pasta parcels stuffed with basil, parmesan and pine kernels in a pesto, garlic and cream sauce.

No room for dessert this time, though we managed to find a corner for a glass (or three) of sweet, fruity chianti. And when we rolled out of Lorenzo's two hours later - our wallets not that much lighter given the quality of food and service we'd enjoyed - it didn't feel that cold outside after all.

Dinner for three at Lorenzo Pizzeria, including two courses and wine, cost around £52.